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Hard work is not always a good thing. Certainly at school it means better grades, and at the office it may lead to a promotion, but hard work on the skin - over-cleansing, over-moisturizing, and too many hydration masks - can lead to a dry, damaged complexion.

Our skin has a natural lipid barrier, which helps lock in moisture and prevent irritants penetrating the dermis. To keep this fragile system working, we need to maintain a precise ratio of lipids - and the quickest way to disrupt this subtle balance is to over-work your skin!

1. Over-cleansing

   Did you know that even water can break down the skin's natural lipid barrier? So just imagine what harsh cleansers can do! Forget the idea your face needs to be 'squeaky' clean, and choose a cleanser that doesn't strip the skin like detergent. Remember, we do far more harm to the skin by over-cleansing than under-cleansing.

2. Too Much Moisturizer

   Most skincare products are made with emulsifiers (= detergents) which dissolve the oils into water to help make a cream or lotion. Unfortunately, the emulsifier also dissolves our own skin lipids and this is why, often, a few hours after applying a cream our skin feels even drier than before. The lipid barrier has not yet repaired itself after the initial application, and the oils in the face cream have disappeared, leaving the skin exposed and dry.

   To properly hydrate the skin, focus on ingredients such as antioxidants and glycolic acid which help improve the skin's structure and enable it to hold in water – a far better alternative to layering on moisturizers.

3. Hydrating Masks

   While hydrating masks can be a great emergency treatment for over-dry skin, it is important to remember they often upset the delicate balance of the face's lipid barrier. Our doctors regularly hear stories of patients who feel they need to apply a hydrating mask every day because their skin is so dry. Often, this is a vicious cycle of their own creation: initially the mask provides some relief, but the breakdown of the lipid barrier means the skin will eventually feel even drier. In most cases, the skin will become less dry as soon as the masks are stopped completely.